Finger Strength Calculator
Assess your climbing finger strength and compare it to different climbing grades with our advanced calculator
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Hangboard Details
Your Finger Strength Results
Enter your details to see which climbing grades your finger strength supports.
Strength Breakdown
Your detailed finger strength analysis will appear here.
📊 Finger Strength Standards by Grade
| Bouldering Grade | 20mm Edge (% BW) | 10mm Edge (% BW) | One Arm Hang |
|---|---|---|---|
| V0-V2 | 60-80% | 40-60% | Not required |
| V3-V5 | 80-100% | 60-80% | Assisted possible |
| V6-V8 | 100-120% | 80-100% | Full hang for 5s |
| V9-V11 | 120-140% | 100-120% | Full hang +10kg |
| V12+ | 140%+ | 120%+ | Full hang +20kg |
Note: These are general guidelines. Technique and other factors also affect climbing performance.
📚 Finger Strength Training Tips
Hangboard Protocol
Follow structured hangboard routines with proper rest between sets (2-3 minutes). Start with 7-10 second hangs.
Progressive Overload
Gradually increase weight or decrease edge size by small increments (2.5kg or 1mm at a time).
Grip Variety
Train different grip types (half crimp, open hand) to develop balanced finger strength.
Proper Form
Maintain good form - shoulders engaged, core tight, and controlled breathing during hangs.
Antagonist Training
Strengthen opposing muscles (forearm extensors) to prevent imbalances and injury.
Recovery
Allow 48 hours between intense finger sessions. Finger tendons need longer recovery than muscles.
⚠️ Finger Injury Prevention
Warm Up Properly
Spend 15-20 minutes warming up with light climbing and finger mobility exercises before intense training.
Listen to Your Body
Stop immediately if you feel sharp pain in your fingers or elbows. Muscle fatigue is normal, joint pain is not.
Volume Management
Limit hangboard sessions to 2-3 per week with at least one rest day between sessions.
Pulley Care
Use tape for support when needed and consider finger flexion exercises to strengthen pulleys.
Note: This calculator provides estimates based on climbing research and general strength standards. Actual climbing performance depends on technique, endurance, and other factors beyond finger strength.